Possibly the best thing about studying abroad in the southern hemisphere in the fall is getting a Spring Break in September of all things. I say this because a week off from classes is exactly what allowed me to have the time of my life traveling through two different South American countries.
The General Itinerary
A bus from Vina del Mar (where I live with my host family) to Santiago. A sleepless night in a noisy party hostel that offers free dinner, wine, and club entrance every Wednesday. A plane to Lima, Peru, and another plane to Cusco, Peru. Three amazing days of breathing in little oxygen (the city is so high up it practically touches the clouds) but lots of culture. Our tour guide’s car to Ollantaytambo (Sacred Valley), a night there, a train to Aguas Calientes/Pueblo de Machu Picchu, a night without electricity in torrential mountain rain, a day exploring Machu Picchu, another night with faulty electricity, a return train and return planes, and a restless night trying to sleep on flights and in airports. Then, another plane–this time to Antofagasta. A meeting with a Chilean friend who went to middle school with me in the U.S. who I had not seen in at least 4 years, a bus to San Pedro de Atacama, two days and three nights in the driest and most spectacular desert in the world, a broken bus and a subsequent transfer to a working bus, an earlier flight than planned to Santiago, another bus, and a few long blocks to my comfy, familiar bed.
I’m Definitely Not in Chile Anymore
The first thing you notice when leaving Chile after a little over two months of deciphering Chilensis is the clarity of everyone else’s Spanish. Peruvians are no exception. No longer does “maomeo” stand in for “mas o menos.” No longer must you answer questions like “Cachai?” (more or less like “Comprendes?”) or “Donde tai?” (“Donde estas?”). Nope: in Peru, the Spanish is almost as clear as the Sacred River that runs through the Peruvian Andes.
The second thing you notice is that the Incas (well, originally the pre-Incan civilizations of which I do not remember the names) were onto something when they built their cities and monuments in the mountains: it is breathtakingly beautiful up there. There is a magic in that (thin) mountain air that you cannot find near sea level.
The third thing you notice is cultural, religious, and architectural melding. Buildings are constructed right on top of centuries-old Incan foundations. Catholic churches feature guinea pig Last Suppers and moreno Jesus Christs. Folkloric dances invoke both the Andean tradition and the later European influences. And yet, there is nothing else like the completely unique Cusquena (Cusco-based) culture. The bright textiles, the complex foods, the Quechua accent noticeable when layered over the clear Peruvian Spanish, the small-town feel that permeates through a city of 400,000… If it were not for the fact that Cusco is consistently overflowing with annoying tourists like me, I would move there.
I fully hiked Machu Picchu Mountain, by the way.
Perfect Desert to that Meal
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile is another tourist town, and for good reason. It turns out the driest desert in the world is one of the two most beautiful places I have ever visited in my life (the other one being Peru). The Atacama desert may not have any rain, ever, but it does have:
Several distinct lakes and lagoons: Where flamingos harvest tiny shrimp, where tourists who don’t know how to swim (oh hey, that’s me again) float lazily upon water that contains 44% salt, where geysers feed pools warm enough to keep your body from freezing in the -11 degree C air at 6 in the morning,
Really cool rocks: In interesting shapes and made out of volcanic ash, Andean mountain discards, and this supernatural yet earthy red color that any visual artist would kill to reproduce,
Volcanoes,
Snow (don’t ask me how it gets there),
Charming cities built over oases,
Lovely sunsets,
And just plain magnificent natural beauty.
While You Were Out…
The funny thing about my trip to Peru is that it coincided with the biggest annual celebration in Chile, which occurs on September 18 and continues for several days afterwards: Fiestas Patrias. Basically, from what I am told, it is Independence Day as the United States knows it, but on steroids.
And I missed it to accomplish my dream of going to Peru.
When I returned to Chile for the desert adventure it was already too late to celebrate, but I did get to see the great decoration show the nation put on for Fiestas Patrias: a great Chilean flag at every door of every building on every street in every city. Literally, I have seen more Chilean flags in the past few days than I have seen in my entire first two months of living here.
Luckily, I did not miss out on all the things Fiestas Patrias entails. I have tried most of the special foods that get made just for the holiday. I have seen Cueca (the national dance). I have been told stories of what September 18 (“el dieciocho“, informally) is like. The picture has been painted in my mind for me. For now, that will have to do.
Who knows–maybe I’ll find my way back to Chile for a future Fiestas Patrias. This country is really starting to worm its way into my heart anyway; how can I stay away too long?
Pictures of the journey will be up soon in a separate post, so stay tuned! And while you’re at it, please hit that “Like” button!